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Shampoo Solutions from InStyle.com
By Jolene Hart
Once upon a time, shampoo demanded a mastery of three basic concepts: Lather, rinse, repeat. But now that cleansing is the least we expect from our increasingly sophisticated suds (which run the gamut from color-correcting to curl-enhancing), questions abound. Here, we tackle your biggest shampoo problems—and offer expert solutions for the good, the bad and the bubbly.
Problem: My hair is fine and gets tangled easily, but moisturizing shampoos tend to weigh it down.
Solution: Avoid them altogether, as they're hardly your only option. Now many volumizing shampoos (longtime friends of fine hair) contain lightweight detanglers. Another alternative to heavy, creamy shampoo is a gentle cleanser with light moisturizers, says hair expert Philip Kingsley, who has clinics in both New York and London. Whatever your lather of choice, brush your hair before you shower to minimize knotting.
Problem: My hair gets brassy.
Solution: Use shampoo preemptively, says celebrity stylist Jonathan Hanousek. Look for products specifically formulated for color-treated hair; they generally contain mild cleansers that strip as little color as possible (fading tends to bring on the brass). Another option? Try a color-depositing shampoo. These tinted formulas help counteract brassy tones by delivering neutralizing pigments.
Problem: I can never seem to get all the shampoo out of my hair.
Solution: Before applying shampoo, make sure your hair is completely wet. When hair isn't fully saturated, you tend to use too much product (the main reason lather is so hard to remove). A quarter-size amount is enough for medium-length hair; adjust depending on your hair's length and thickness (even Rapunzel shouldn't be filling her palm with shampoo). For an effective rinse, lift hair in sections to let water flow over your scalp, and squeeze out suds. Always rinse a few extra seconds for good measure.
Problem: I wish my hair were easier to smooth and straighten.
Solution: To protect hair from frizz-inducing humidity (the main obstacle to smooth, straight hair), use a shampoo that coats strands with lightweight silicones and oils—or both. "These help seal the cuticle and lock out moisture," says N.Y.C. stylist Rodney Cutler.
Problem: I'd like to try an organic shampoo, but I'm afraid it will smell funny or not cleanse very well.
Solution: Forget the funky aroma of products from health-food stores past: Organic shampoos now come in heady scents like Vanilla Silk and Pomegranate Green Tea. And while natural foaming agents differ from those in conventional shampoos (coconut derivatives are common botanical surfactants), the subsequent cleansing is no less thorough—though it will typically be less sudsy, notes Eva Scrivo, an N.Y.C. stylist.
Problem: My hair is dry, damaged and ultrafine.
Solution: When hair calls for moisture without weight, avoid shampoos made with heavy oils (shea butter, nut oils). Look for gentle, reparative types, as these tend to contain less drying detergents. Also, steer clear of heavy conditioners; a lightweight spray detangler will hydrate hair without weighing it down.
Problem: Can I find a good shampoo if I'm on a strict budget?
Solution: While some drugstore shampoos contain harsh detergents that can dry out hair, plenty of them don't. And while a chemistry post-doc might be able to discern which ones to avoid by scanning the ingredient lists, the easier approach is to look for a few keywords: "Go with 'moisturizing' shampoos because it's better to be too soft than too hard," says Rodney Cutler. ("Gentle" and "hydrating" are also code for "safe.")
Problem: My hair is dull.
Solution: To add shine you need to camouflage damage caused by coloring, styling and the elements. If you looked at your hair strand under a microscope, the "dullness" you'd see would look like ragged shingles. To create a healthier appearance, seal your strands with moisture so they form a silky surface. With coated cuticles, individual hairs lie flat and create a wall of shine, says Boston stylist Monika Ramizi.
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